06 Jul

The Making of a San Mai Kukri – Part 1

 

Over the past 2 days I’ve been working on a new custom order and I thought it might put some insight into how I forge blades by doing a little photo documentation. I’ll post more pictures as I work on this kukri more over the next few days. Update Part 2 and Part 3

Update January 24, 2018 – This post still get’s a ton of traffic after almost 3 years, more so than any other post on the site – probably because I don’t post as often on here and rely a bit more on our Facebook page for that. Either way, thanks for visiting and please take a moment to look around after viewing this post and browse the rest of the site! 

20150705_104455

Two pieces of 2.5″x6″ 15N20 and a piece of 0.1875″ 1084 – Cleaned and ready to weld.

20150705_104553

Clamped for tack welding. It’s important to clamp both ends because of how thin the 15N20 is, otherwise we’ll end up with warping which may cause problems during welding.

20150705_104900

Just a few quick tacks, 6 in total, just enough to hold the stock together for welding into a billet.

20150705_105239

Flat dies in the hydraulic press for setting the initial weld.

20150705_105405

After a little preheating, the tacked stock is fluxed with borax and ready to be brought to welding heat.

20150705_110358

Setting the initial weld in the press.

20150705_111316

During the process, I reflux the seams several times just to ensure a solid weld.

20150705_112322

After setting the weld in my press, I draw it out on the rolling mill to 0.1875″ With a 6″ starting length, this means the billet will be 11″ long when at the correct thickness.

20150705_115811

The billet welded. Because of how the rolling mill works, it only draws out the length of the billet, leaving us with 2.5″x11″. I then use my plasma cutter to trim the billet to 2.25″x10.85″ – this eliminates any possibility of cold shuts around the edge of the billet.

20150706_103337

Notching using the sharp edge of the anvil where the tang will be drawn out.

20150706_104928

It’s a lot of working back and forth on two sides to start drawing the tang down.

20150706_105512

Once I get it to a decent length and width, I can now hold it in my blade tongs to start working on the main body of the kukri.

20150706_110303

I begin by upsetting and rounding the tip. This eliminates any rolling that would cause a cold shut.

20150706_111301

Then, using a slightly round faced hammer, I start narrowing the blade down in the center.

20150706_113839

Roughed out shape. Still have some forging today for the tip and for the mid-section of the blade. I need to narrow it down a little more towards the ricasso.

 

06 Jul

Last class of summer!

I’ve got two spots open for the last knife making class I’m doing this summer. It’s this coming weekend, July 11 and 12. Would love to have another student or two! knifeclass.eventzilla.net

10 May

Updated Class Schedule!

Finally worked out the dates for my new class schedule from now until April 2016! I’m doing two different classes for the next year, limited to just 3 students each and all students will make 2 knives during each class.

The first is a 2-day knife making class that will consist of both stock removal and hand forging of blades, plus heat treating, polishing and finishing. There will only be 17 of these weekend classes available from July 2015 through April 23, 2016. $385 http://knifeclass.eventzilla.net

The second class is a Sunday only class on making a wire rope Damascus knife. The class will not only cover the forging the blade but also forge welding, heat treating and finishing. There are only 5 of these classes through April 17, 2016. $140 http://cableknife.eventzilla.net